PUPPY HEALTH

This was written to help you give your pup a good head start. You can't argue with success.  If you wan't your pup to perform like an athleet then you should treat him as if he were one.  Just to mix things up. I've included  (Michelle Mears-High on the hog Kennels) collem below. This was the one she had in Boar Hunter Magizine.  It's always good to get another persons perspective.  You will also find a flea prevention program as well.  I do want to clarify that I am not telling anyone to use this as an instructional worming program for your own dogs.  I just figured It wouldn't hurt to share it. 

 

 

PuppynHealth

I start my pups on a worming program when they are 2 weeks of age.  They stay on the program until they are sold or one year old.  I was given a worming recipe from an old country vet who helps me with my dogs.  The recipe consist of one 500 ml bottle of Valbazen and 10ccs of Ivermectin.  I put the 10 ccs of Ivermectin in the 500 ml bottle of Valbazen and shake it up really well.  Recipe is complete.  At 2 weeks old I'll give each pup 4 drops of the solution every two weeks to 15 days increasing the dosage as they grow.  I'll repeat this process until they reach 25 LBS.  Then I follow the instructional chart on the side of the Valbazen bottle giving the recommended dosage every two weeks or 15 days.  At one year of age I only worm once a month unless it's the wet season.   In the spring I will worm the adult dogs twice a month as well.  

My Chart!
25 LBS                   .75 ML
50 LBS                   1.5 ML
75 LBS                 2.25 ML
100 LBS                 3.0 ML

 Our pups get their immunization shots starting at five weeks of age, second at seven weeks of age and the last one at eleven weeks old.   Some people even give a fourth seven way shot.  All of our grown dogs are wormed once a month following the chart on the side of the bottle.  Valbazen is one of the best wormers on the market for Adult Liver worms, head an segments of tape worms, larvae and adult stomach worms, Intestional worms and lung worms.  The Ivermectin is a heart worm preventative.  Our pups are guarantied healthy when they leave the yard!! We don't claim to have the Best in the dogs in the world but "I bet we're Pretty Dam Close!"  Remember a good worming program is the most important thing a person can do for there dogs.  It's the foundation of the dog's growth!

Good Luck,

 

Flea Prevention:

 

You can go to Lowes or anywhere that they sell pesticides(I buy it at Lowes) it's in the garden section and it's in a blue quart plastic bottle labeled Bayer.....just like the aspirin company.....advanced 12month tree and shrub insect control concentrate.....turn the bottle to the back side and it should say active ingredient....Imidacloprid 1.47%.. This is the exact same chemical as admire but it is more dilute so we have to put more on the dog. I have been using it for over a year now on my curs and several friends' dogs. This is also the same chemical the vet sales trade name advantage...but it is more dilute than it but way much cheaper. A quart of this here in Texas it cost eighteen bucks and on average you can treat around sixty dogs with the quart. I put fifteen milliliters....15ml on all dogs from 40 to 65 lbs.... 20 ml on 65 to 90 lbs and 25 ml on a dog over 90 lbs. Put it on every dog that you own inside and outside every month. You won't have to spray anything because each dog will become a flea killing machine....Within 24 hours after treating the dog any flea that bites the dog for a month or more will die within a few minutes.....as more eggs hatch and fleas are born they will bite the dog and be dead quick. I have seen massive infestations irradiated by one dog being treated and every flea in their house and outside was dead in four days.
Buy this stuff and a 30 ml syringe.... if the dog will lay down squirt it on their bellies and rub it in all over the belie and chest. I f the dog won't lay down just start at the base of the tail and apply a strip from there up to their neck and rub it in. The idea is to get as much on their skin as possible because it is absorbed into their bloodstream and within 24 hours it is circulating throughout their body for at least a month. There will be a dry streak down their back when it dry's and the next day if you don't like seeing that then take a spray bottle of water and dampen the streak and rub it in....then even more of the chemical will now get in their bloodstream but it really won't matter cause the fleas are in trouble either way. Try not to bathe the dogs a few days before and a few days after putting this on them.
This stuff has shown amazing results here for i have never been flea free this long........over a year..... I have fought fleas all my life untill I found this stuff....i mean i don't have a one here.....good luck and i hope it works as good for y'all as it has for me...

 

 

Puppy Health By Michelle Mears

 

  Over the years I've noticed that a lot of people get puppies or have a litter, then have no idea how to properly care for them, resulting in a high mortality rate or some sickly-looking dogs.  So, I figured I'd sit down and write about some of the most common issues concerning puppy health.

 

  First of all, if you've just had a litter, be prepared to lose one or two pups within the first two weeks.  This can be due to any number of reasons, underdeveloped pups; the mother dog might lie on them, or fading puppy syndrome.  After those two weeks, the remaining pups should be fine.  My main rule, as anyone who's been to my yard can tell you, when there are unvaccinated pups on the ground; I limit the foot traffic in my yard.  And everyone has to spray their shoes with an anti-viral solution that I keep mixed in a spray bottle at the gate.  I use Parvolan, but there are several kinds available.  They kill the Parvo virus, Distemper and a few others.  What most folks don't know, is that these particular viruses can be brought into the yard on your shoes.  Take extra care, especially when you've been in a vet's office.  There are a lot of sick dogs that go there!

 

  Check your pups everyday.  Pick each one up and check for dehydration.  This is done by pinching the skin on the back of their neck.  If the skin snaps back down, they're fine.  If it stays up in the pinched position, that puppy is dehydrated and needs to be watched closely.  At this young age, a puppy can dehydrate rapidly, so you want to catch any problems as soon as possible.  They may look fine, until you actually pick them up and check.  A healthy pup is firm, warm and wriggly.  Watch the stools, as they can also let you know when something is wrong.  If you notice the pups becoming bloated, crying a lot and having abnormal looking stools, there's a problem.  Have the ph tested on the mother's milk.

 

  Keep the puppy box and are clean, warm and dry.  Newborn pups have no shiver reflex and cannon warm themselves; therefore, they get chilled very easily.  Change the bedding often.  Young pups will get pus-filled blisters on their bellies from urine scalds due to lying on urine-soaked bedding.  If this happens, clean the blisters with surgical scrub such as betadine, and then apply an antibacterial ointment like Neosporin.  Dirty living quarters can also cause Coxidia.  Pups usually contract this around 4-6 weeks of age or older.  It is highly contagious and once diagnosed, you might as well medicate the whole litter.  Next to Parvo, Coxidia is one of the leading causes of death among older pups.  Watch for bloody looking stools and skinny, dehydrated pups.  This is relatively easy to treat, as long as you catch it in time.  I use Albon 12%.  Sometimes you can get it at the feed store, as it is the same medication used to treat chickens for Coxidia.  Check with your vet for dosages.

 

 Next, let's talk about worming and vaccinations.  I start worming pus at four weeks.  I use Ivomec at a very low dose.  A lot of people don't like to use Ivomec at such a young age, but in fifteen years, I've never had a problem.  I worm at four, five and six weeks, then again at eight and nine weeks.

 

  NOTE:  Do not worm and vaccinate your pups on the same day, as it may be too much for their system.  I give vaccinations at 6, 9, 12 and 15 weeks.

 

  By fifteen weeks, the pups have lost all their mother's immunities, so the last shot is very important.  I strongly advise against using feed store vaccines.  Too many people have had bad experiences, me included.  Vaccines have to stay cold!!!  As soon as they get warm, they are not good.  Unless you know the feed store personnel personally, and can be sure the shots arrive there cold and are immediately refrigerated, then don't use them.  Order your own shots.  This way you know for sure.  Yes, it's a little more hassle, but the shots will be good and they're cheaper too!  I order all my vaccines from www.jefferspet.com.  Have them shipped next-day air, with extra ice packs.  Make sure someone's home when they come.  If you can't be home, put a large cooler with ice by your mailbox with a note to the post master to put he package inside it.  This is very important, especially for the southern state in the summer months.  I also recommend the vaccines that contain Lepto.  Hog dogs are very susceptible to this bacterium.

 

  Lastly, keep you pups flea and tick free.  Small pups can become anemic quickly.  You can safely bathe them in liquid ivory dish soap for the fleas and use Sevin 5% dust in their box to kill ticks.  Also, clip their nails once a week.  Those little nails are like needles, and your gyp can get a nasty infection from scratches on her teats.

 

  Well, I think I've covered all the most important things on puppy health.  I've raised hundreds of pups and have learned all of this from experiences, good and bad!

 

  Good luck!

                                   

 


KD's Black Mouth Curs
3903 Pine Street
Greenville, TX 75401
Cell Phone: 903-456-8462
Home Phone: 903-455-1604
Email: curdogharper@yahoo.com

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